Comprehensive Guide to Caring for Tropheus Cichlids in Aquariums
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Brief Description
The genus Tropheus includes a group of highly popular cichlids found in Lake Tanganyika, located in central Africa. Lake Tanganyika is the second deepest lake in the world and is home to over 600 species, including Tropheus. These fish are known for their bright colors and active personalities, but they require advanced care and are not recommended for beginners. Due to their aggressive nature, they thrive in large groups and heavily structured tank environments. Providing ample rockwork and a female-heavy population can help minimize aggression.
Introduction
In their natural habitat, Tropheus species are found in the rocky regions of Lake Tanganyika, feeding primarily on algae and vegetation growing on submerged rocks. In the wild, it's not unusual to see different Tropheus species schooling together, but in aquariums, it’s important to avoid mixing species to prevent hybridization. Tropheus prefer to stay close to rocks for feeding and protection, as they rely on these structures for shelter.
In captivity, male Tropheus are highly territorial and will defend a section of rocks for breeding and feeding purposes. Females also defend their territories for feeding. In a tank, it’s advisable to provide multiple rock areas to allow each male to establish its territory, while offering additional hiding spots for females. A fine sand substrate is recommended as Tropheus naturally sift through sand in search of food. The algae that grows on the substrate, along with small amounts of sand, aids in their digestion. If your tank setup doesn’t allow for enough rocks or space, you may want to reconsider keeping Tropheus or opt for a larger tank.
Water Parameters
Maintaining stable water parameters is crucial for Tropheus care. The water in Lake Tanganyika is alkaline, and the following water parameters are recommended:
- pH: 7.8 - 9.0
- Temperature: 24°C - 28°C (75°F - 82°F)
- Hardness: 10 - 20 dGH
Aside from the pH, temperature, and hardness, it’s also important to monitor ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Tropheus are highly sensitive to poor water quality. Ammonia and nitrite levels should always be at 0, while nitrates should be kept under 20 ppm. You can achieve this through regular water changes and efficient filtration.
Feeding
Tropheus are primarily herbivores, feeding on algae in the wild. In captivity, it’s essential to replicate their natural diet by providing algae-based foods. A quality spirulina-based flake or pellet food is ideal, supplemented with blanched vegetables like zucchini and spinach. Avoid feeding protein-rich foods such as bloodworms, as these can lead to digestive problems and bloating.
In their natural habitat, Tropheus graze on biofilm and algae growing on rocks, consuming plant matter and microorganisms. You can create algae growth on rocks in your tank by placing them under direct lighting.
Breeding Behavior
Tropheus species are maternal mouthbrooders, meaning that the female carries the fertilized eggs in her mouth until they hatch. Males defend territories during the breeding season, and females may hold their fry for up to four weeks before releasing them. Although the adults won’t eat the fry, they may harass them, so it’s recommended to provide small rock crevices for the fry to hide. Alternatively, you can strip the female of her fry and raise them in a separate tank or breeding net until they are large enough to avoid being harassed.
Tank Setup
Creating the right tank setup is crucial for Tropheus to thrive. Here's what to consider:
- Tank Size: A minimum of 120 gallons (approximately 454 liters) is recommended, especially for large groups. Tropheus are active swimmers and require both horizontal and vertical space, so a tall, wide tank is ideal.
- Substrate: Fine sand is preferable as it mimics their natural habitat and allows them to sift through it for food. Avoid coarser substrates, which they may not interact with as much.
- Rockwork: Construct large rock formations along the back of the tank to provide shelter, territories, and grazing surfaces. Suitable rocks include lava rock, slate, limestone, and lace rock, which mimic the natural habitat of Tropheus. The rocks should be securely placed to avoid accidents when the fish dig or shift sand.
- Filtration: Use a powerful filtration system to maintain pristine water conditions. Tropheus are sensitive to poor water quality, and regular water changes are essential.
- Aeration: Ensure there is plenty of aeration in the tank by using air pumps or airstones, as these fish require well-oxygenated water.
Tank Mates
Due to their aggression, Tropheus are best kept in species-specific tanks. If you plan to house them with other fish, choose peaceful, non-aggressive species that can tolerate similar water conditions, such as Synodontis catfish. Avoid other aggressive cichlids, which may compete for territory and lead to increased stress and conflict.
Species Overview
The Tropheus genus is generally divided into eight recognized species, although some aquarists categorize them into only four groups. Below are the species according to Ad Konings in "Tanganyika Cichlids in Their Natural Habitat":
- T. Moorii: Known for its bold colors, typically featuring shades of red, orange, or yellow. Found predominantly in the southern part of Lake Tanganyika.
- T. Duboisi: Juveniles have a jet-black body with white spots, but adults develop a band of white or yellow across the middle and a blue face.
- T. Brichardi: Less colorful as adults, but fry display bright orange and black stripes. Males and females show different stripe patterns as they mature.
- T. sp. "black"
- T. sp. "red"
- T. sp. "Mpimbwe"
- T. sp. "Ikola"
Maintenance Tips
To keep Tropheus healthy and thriving in your tank, follow these maintenance tips:
- Perform weekly water changes of 20-30% to keep water quality high and prevent the buildup of nitrates.
- Trim algae as needed, but allow natural algae to grow on the rocks and substrate as it forms part of their diet.
- Monitor water parameters regularly to ensure they remain within the optimal range for Tropheus species. Test for total hardness (GH), carbonate hardness (KH), and pH levels. Carbonate hardness (KH) should be 4 or greater, with an ideal level of 6 to keep the pH stable and prevent fluctuations.
- Feed small amounts multiple times a day, focusing on plant-based foods like spirulina flakes and blanched vegetables.
Species and Links
- Labeotropheus fuelleborni (Blue mbuna)
- Labeotropheus trewavasae (Trewavas mbuna)
- Pseudotropheus aurora (Aurora cichlid)
- Pseudotropheus crabro (Bumble bee)
- Pseudotropheus demasoni (Demason’s cichlid)
- Pseudotropheus elongatus (Slender mbuna)
- Pseudotropheus estherae (Red zebra)
- Pseudotropheus fainzilberi (Mbuna cichlid)
- Pseudotropheus lanisticola (Malawi shell dweller)
- Pseudotropheus lombardoi (Kenyi cichlid)
- Pseudotropheus socolofi (Powder blue cichlid)
- Tropheus brichardi (Blue eyed tropheus)
- Tropheus duboisi (Dwarf tanganyikan cichlid)
- Tropheus moorii (Blunthead cichlid)
Suitable Plants for a Tropheus Aquarium
Although Tropheus cichlids are not typically found in heavily planted areas, you can still add some hardy plants to your aquarium to help with water filtration and oxygenation. When selecting plants, choose species that can thrive in the alkaline conditions of a Lake Tanganyika biotope. Suitable plants include:
- Anubias species: These tough, slow-growing plants are ideal for Tropheus tanks. They can be attached to rocks and driftwood, making them perfect for aquascaping without disturbing the sand substrate. Anubias are resilient to the higher pH levels common in Tanganyika setups and thrive in low-light conditions.
- Vallisneria spiralis: Vallisneria, with its long, ribbon-like leaves, can provide vertical coverage without overtaking the tank. It grows well in the alkaline conditions of a Tanganyika biotope but may require trimming to prevent it from covering the water surface.
- Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus): Like Anubias, Java Fern can be tied to rocks and doesn’t require substrate planting. It's extremely hardy and well-suited to the high pH and hard water of a Tropheus tank.
- Cryptocoryne species: Although Cryptocorynes are usually found in more neutral water, some species (such as Cryptocoryne wendtii) can adapt to slightly higher pH and can be used in Tanganyika biotope tanks.
Tips for Adding Plants:
- Ensure plants are securely attached to rocks to prevent Tropheus from uprooting them.
- Choose plants that can tolerate the low nutrient conditions and higher pH of the aquarium.
- Avoid plants that require CO₂ injection, as these are often unnecessary and not ideal for a Tropheus setup.
- Limit planting to avoid covering too much of the tank's rocky structure, as Tropheus prefer open areas for swimming and grazing on algae.
Source
Reference: Tanganyika Cichlids in their Natural Habitat, by Ad Konings.