Salmon Pink Tarantula (Lasiodora parahybana) – Housing and Care Guide

Introduction

The Salmon Pink Tarantula (Lasiodora parahybana) is one of the largest tarantula species in the world. Native to the northeastern forests of Brazil, this terrestrial species prefers the forest floor, rarely climbing trees. While they are not true burrowers, they sometimes dig shallow burrows in the wild for shelter.

This species is highly sought after by tarantula enthusiasts due to its impressive size, ease of breeding, and relatively low cost. Mature individuals typically reach a leg span of 8 inches (20 cm), with some specimens growing up to 10 inches (25 cm). Despite their large size, they are not ideal for beginners, as they can be defensive and possess fangs that grow up to 1 inch (2.5 cm), capable of delivering a painful bite.

Unlike some other tarantula species that prefer to stay hidden, the Salmon Pink Tarantula is often visible in its enclosure. Since it does not climb or burrow extensively, keepers can frequently observe its behavior, making it an appealing choice for those who enjoy watching their tarantula in action.

The body of Lasiodora parahybana is stocky, measuring around 4 to 5 inches (10–12 cm), with relatively shorter legs compared to its body size. Its coloration is primarily dark brown or black, with distinctive reddish hairs covering its abdomen and legs. When threatened, the tarantula can eject these hairs as a defense mechanism, which can cause skin irritation in humans.

Spiderlings hatch with a distinct pinkish hue, which gradually darkens as they mature, giving rise to their common name. Due to their rapid growth rate—reaching up to 6 inches (15 cm) within their first year—they are widely available and commonly bred in captivity.

This guide will provide essential information on housing, feeding, and breeding the Salmon Pink Tarantula, helping you ensure proper care for this fascinating species.

Caring for the Brazilian Pink Salmon Tarantula

The size of the enclosure should be based on the size of your tarantula. Juveniles and hatchlings require much less space than adults, but keep in mind that as your tarantula grows, you will need to upgrade its enclosure.

A good rule of thumb is that the enclosure's length should be at least 2–3 times the spider’s leg span, while the width should be at least 1.5–2 times the leg span. Unlike arboreal species, height is not a critical factor since the Salmon Pink Tarantula is a terrestrial species that spends its time on the ground rather than climbing.

Enclosure options: Many keepers use a glass aquarium with a secure lid, but plastic enclosures with adequate ventilation holes are also suitable. If using a plastic container, make sure to drill small air holes to allow proper airflow.

Placement of the Enclosure

Proper enclosure placement is crucial for your tarantula's well-being. Avoid areas with high foot traffic since tarantulas can detect vibrations from footsteps, which may stress them. Additionally, keep the enclosure away from direct sunlight, as excessive heat can overheat the environment and be fatal to your pet.

Safety Considerations

It's important to remember that Salmon Pink Tarantulas have large fangs and can bite. While their venom is not considered dangerous to humans, their bites can be painful. For safety reasons, consider placing the enclosure on a stand or shelf, out of reach of small children, who may be tempted to open it.

Substrate Selection

Choosing the right substrate is essential for maintaining a comfortable and natural environment for your tarantula. The ideal depth of the substrate depends on the size of the tarantula:

• Minimum depth: 2 inches (5 cm) for adults
• Ideal depth: 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) to allow shallow burrowing

Although Lasiodora parahybana is not a deep burrower, it may create shallow burrows to feel more secure. Recommended substrate materials include:

• Pesticide-free potting soil
• Leaf mold
• Vermiculite (for added moisture retention)

The substrate should be lightly damp but not wet. Overwatering can lead to mold and bacterial growth, which may harm your tarantula. A useful technique is to drip water down the sides of the enclosure to maintain moisture without oversaturating the entire substrate.

Substrate and Humidity

Choosing the right substrate is essential for maintaining a comfortable and natural environment for your tarantula. The substrate should replicate the forest floor where Lasiodora parahybana naturally lives. Suitable options include:

• Pesticide-free potting soil (ensure it contains no fertilizers or chemicals)
• Leaf mold (provides a natural texture and moisture retention)
• Vermiculite (improves humidity levels and aeration)

The substrate should be lightly damp but never soaking wet. A good practice is to drip water down the sides of the enclosure to maintain humidity in the lower layers while keeping the surface dry. This prevents excessive moisture buildup, which could lead to bacterial growth or mold.

Hides and Décor

While decorations are optional, a suitable hide is essential. Tarantulas need a secure retreat where they can feel safe. Some simple and effective hiding spots include:

• A half-buried plant pot placed on its side
• Cork bark positioned to create a small cave
• Commercially available spider hides

Ensure the hide is appropriately sized—not too large, so the tarantula feels secure, but not too small to restrict movement.

If you want to create a more natural-looking setup, artificial plants are a better option than real ones. Since tarantulas do not require lighting, real plants may struggle to grow, and decaying leaves can introduce bacteria. High-quality silk or plastic plants offer the same aesthetic effect without these risks.

Providing Water and Maintaining Humidity

A small water dish is necessary for your tarantula’s hydration and helps regulate humidity. The dish should be:

• Shallow to prevent accidental spills
• Stable—press it slightly into the substrate for support
• Cleaned and refilled regularly to prevent bacterial buildup

Although tarantulas get most of their moisture from their food, providing a water source ensures they can drink when needed.

Temperature and Heating

Room temperature is generally sufficient for this species. If you live in a temperate climate, no additional heating is required. However, in colder environments, a heat source may be necessary.

If heating is needed, the best option is a heat mat, which should be attached to the rear of the enclosure. Never place the heat mat underneath, as tarantulas burrow to cool down, and direct heat from below can be harmful.

The ideal temperature range is:

• 21–24°C (70–75°F) during the day
• A slight drop at night to mimic natural conditions

Lighting Considerations

Tarantulas prefer dark environments, and bright light can stress them. Using a standard light bulb for heating or display purposes is not recommended, as it can overheat the enclosure.

If you want to observe your tarantula at night, consider using colored bulbs:

• Red or black bulbs provide gentle illumination without disturbing the tarantula.
• Lights should never be left on overnight, as temperature drops are necessary for a healthy environment.

Feeding the Brazilian Pink Salmon Tarantula

Natural Diet

In the wild, the Brazilian Pink Salmon Tarantula (Lasiodora parahybana) is an opportunistic predator that consumes a variety of small animals. Its natural diet includes:

• Small rodents (such as baby mice)
• Frogs and lizards
• Large insects (including crickets, grasshoppers, and moths)
• Even small snakes in some cases

While these tarantulas are capable of taking down vertebrate prey, most keepers prefer to feed them an insect-based diet in captivity.

Recommended Diet in Captivity

If you are uncomfortable feeding small mice, an insect-based diet is a great alternative. Suitable feeder insects include:

• Crickets (a staple food source)
• Mealworms (high in protein but should be fed in moderation)
• Grasshoppers (a great source of nutrition)
• Moths (occasionally offered as variety)

Unlike reptiles, tarantulas do not require calcium supplements. However, feeder insects should be gut-loaded before being offered to ensure the tarantula gets essential nutrients.

Hunting and Digestion

How does a tarantula eat? These spiders do not chew their food but instead inject their prey with digestive enzymes through their fangs. This process liquefies the prey's tissues, allowing the tarantula to ingest the softened remains.

Is their venom dangerous? While not highly venomous to humans, their venom can paralyze small prey. Their bites are painful but not medically significant unless an allergic reaction occurs.

Important Feeding Considerations

• Size matters: Offer prey that is smaller than the tarantula’s body to prevent injuries.
• Remove uneaten prey: Any uneaten insects should be removed after 24 hours to avoid stress or injury to the tarantula.
• Avoid overfeeding: These tarantulas can go for weeks without food. Overfeeding may lead to obesity and molting issues.
• Cannibalistic tendencies: Do not house multiple tarantulas together, as they may attack and eat each other.

General Notes

Choosing the Right Tarantula

When purchasing a Salmon Pink Tarantula (Lasiodora parahybana), it is best to opt for a captive-bred juvenile. There are several reasons for this:

• Better adaptation: Younger specimens adjust to their enclosures more easily than adults.
• More accustomed to humans: Captive-bred tarantulas are less likely to be stressed by human presence.
• Witnessing growth and development: Raising a tarantula from a young age allows you to observe its color changes, size progression, and behavior shifts over time.

Learning About Tarantula Care

There are numerous reference books and online resources available for tarantula care. The more information you gather before getting a tarantula, the better prepared you will be to maintain its health and well-being.

The Moulting Process

Like all tarantulas, Lasiodora parahybana grows by shedding its exoskeleton in a process called moulting. In the wild, this makes them vulnerable to predators, but in captivity, the process is generally safe if left undisturbed.

Signs That Moulting Is Approaching

• Loss of appetite: The tarantula may stop eating for days or even weeks before moulting.
• Increased restlessness: Some specimens may become more active or display unusual behaviors.
• Shedding abdominal hairs: The tarantula may rub off urticating hairs from its abdomen.

The Moulting Process

The tarantula will prepare for moulting by spinning a web-like cradle to rest on. It will then flip onto its back, a natural but often alarming sight for new owners.

Important: Never attempt to disturb or handle the tarantula during moulting! This is a delicate process, and any interference can cause injury or death.

How the Moulting Happens

• The abdomen splits first, allowing the spider to begin sliding out of its old exoskeleton.
• Fluid is pumped into the legs, causing them to break free.
• The tarantula gradually wriggles out of its old shell, completing the process in minutes to hours, depending on the individual.

Post-Moulting Care

After moulting, the tarantula will have a soft body and weak fangs. It should not be handled during this time. The exoskeleton will take several days to harden, and the tarantula will not eat until it has fully recovered.

Breeding the Brazilian Pink Salmon Tarantula

Things to Consider Before Breeding

While breeding Lasiodora parahybana is not particularly difficult, it requires careful planning. Before attempting to breed them, ask yourself:

• Do I have the space and resources to raise spiderlings?
• Can I properly care for the offspring until they are rehomed?
• Do I have an outlet to sell or give away the juveniles?

If you are confident in your ability to manage the breeding process and raise the young, the first step is sexing the tarantulas.

How to Determine the Sex of Your Tarantula

The easiest way to determine the sex of a tarantula is by examining a freshly shed exoskeleton (moult). Carefully open the abdomen area and look for these key differences:

• Females: Have visible sperm storage sacs in the epigynal area (found just below where the abdomen connects to the carapace).
• Males: Do not have sperm storage sacs.

Mature females are usually larger and stockier than males. Males develop mating hooks on their front legs, which they use during mating. Sexing young specimens can be tricky, so if unsure, seek advice from an experienced breeder.

Understanding the Mating Process

Tarantulas mate after moulting, with females typically moulting once per year. This means that timing is crucial. Males go through a mature moulting stage, during which:

• Their bodies become smaller in proportion to their legs.
• Their legs become longer and thinner.
• Bulbous structures appear near their mouths, where sperm is stored.

Preparing the Male for Mating

After maturing, the male will build a hammock-shaped web in the corner of its enclosure, usually within a couple of weeks after moulting. This web is essential for mating.

The male will then:

• Rub its body against the web to deposit sperm.
• Climb onto the web and absorb the sperm into special sacs at the ends of its legs.
• Destroy the web once the sperm has been collected, signaling that he is ready to mate.

Introducing the Male to the Female

Introducing the male into the female's enclosure must be done with extreme caution to prevent aggression. Follow these steps for a successful introduction:

• Place the male at the opposite end of the enclosure from the female.
• The male will begin drumming on the substrate and gently vibrating his abdomen to signal interest.
• As he approaches, the female may adopt a defensive stance, raising her fangs.
• The male will use his mating hooks to hold the female’s fangs and lift her for mating.

Post-Mating Behavior

Once mating is complete, the male is at his most vulnerable—the female may attempt to attack and kill him. To prevent this:

• The male should quickly disengage and move away.
• As soon as possible, remove the male from the enclosure to ensure his safety.

The Female’s Role After Mating

After mating, the female will focus entirely on producing an egg sac. During this time:

• Provide her with plenty of food to keep her strong.
• She will spin thick webs and may burrow to protect the eggs.
• Once the egg sac is produced, do not attempt to feed or handle her—if she feels threatened, she may eat the eggs.

Raising the Spiderlings

Hatching Time and Early Development

The hatching time for Brazilian Salmon Pink Tarantula spiderlings can vary significantly. The shortest recorded incubation period is around 4 weeks after the egg sac is produced, but it can often take much longer.

Newly hatched spiders are called nymphs and initially appear white. They will not develop their characteristic coloration until they undergo their first moult.

Managing Cannibalism

Spiderlings are highly cannibalistic, so it is essential to separate them into smaller groups as they grow. If kept together for too long, they may start preying on each other.

Housing the Spiderlings

For long-term care, individual spiderlings can be housed in small plastic containers with a thin layer of moist (but not wet) substrate. Even tiny plastic film canisters can serve as temporary homes.

Feeding the Young Tarantulas

Spiderlings require frequent feeding to support their rapid growth. Suitable food sources include:

• Small crickets
• Maggots
• Other tiny live prey

It is crucial to monitor their growth closely. Check for moults after each feeding session and remove any shed exoskeletons to maintain a clean habitat. Since young tarantulas grow quickly, they will moult more frequently than adults.

Feed the spiderlings twice a week to ensure they receive enough nourishment for healthy development.

Rehoming as They Grow

As the spiderlings grow larger, they will need to be moved into larger containers. Make sure to have appropriately sized enclosures prepared in advance to prevent overcrowding.

Important Safety Notes

• Potential Allergic Reactions: While the Brazilian Salmon Pink Tarantula is not considered highly venomous, its venom and urticating hairs can cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Only experienced keepers should handle them. If you are unsure about your sensitivity, avoid direct contact.
• Handling Risks: A fall can be fatal for a tarantula. If you must handle your spider, keep it low to the ground to prevent serious injury in case of a fall.